Shedding secrets: Are hair extensions a plastic pollutant hidden in plain sight?

Beauty and personal care products have gained widespread global popularity, with plastic synthetic hair products being widely produced to supplement or replace natural hair. Patterns of use are influenced by cultural norms and beauty standards, with >US$1 billion spent globally by Black women. In Ghana, hair extensions are extensively used; however, comprehensive data on their use, disposal – pollutant source, negative effect/harm to human and environmental health remains limited or unknown. Our research presents an opportunity to explore findings on the usage, disposal practices, and polymer composition of synthetic hair extensions used in Cape Coast, Ghana. It was estimated that 40% of the female population in Cape Coast use synthetic hair, generating ∼167 tonnes of synthetic hair waste per year. Most of the fake hair products used are in the mid-range price GH¢55 (∼USD$4.8). Over 90% of the woman replaced their hair extensions monthly, with replacements primarily discarded with household waste or incinerated. There was no interest in the composition of the extensions, and limited interest in reusing/recycling these products, mainly associated with cultural beliefs. Of 39 samples of synthetic hair, there were nine distinct polymers, with polyacrylonitrile accounting for 53%, polyester 18% and polypropylene 17% of the total. The intersecting issues of cultural beliefs and traditions, waste management, plastic pollution, toxicity related to synthetic hair products together with sustainable disposal pathways, combined with low public awareness and regulatory oversight, suggests that synthetic hair may represent an underrecognized source of toxic waste, with implications for environmental integrity and human health.